The Ice

The majestic Albatross and the Ice

The little town of Ushaia aka "El Fin del Mundo' (Spanish for 'asshole of the world') is not, for those in the know, the real end of the earth. There is another place, most often described in superlatives, the highest, the driest, the windiest, the coldest, the wildest and most isolated continent on earth that deserves this title. This place is Antarctica, for which stunning and majestic also come to mind (and some days, harsh and unforgiving as well).

Whale's tales and my 'home away from home' - The Akademik Ioffe

At the end of March, I walked down the Akademik Ioffe's gangway for the last time, teary-eyed and overwhelmed with the sadness of goodbye. I'm not sure when or where it happened, but at some point between arriving in Ushaia and leaving again, I fell in love with Antarctica, our amazing Russian crew and of course, the One Ocean staff.

Hanging out in South Georgia with a few of my King penguin friends
(photo courtesy of Ira Meyer)

While Antarctica is phenomenal on every level, what made this experience so amazing were the people I shared it all with. It was just one of those rare moments where a group comes together and the positive energy created is tangible to all. My crew mates are amongst some of the richest and most interesting people I've ever had the privilege to work with - when a team 'goes' together, its unstoppable. It was awesome to not only witness this dynamic but also to live and breathe it every day. Added to this mix was the Ioffe's Russian Crew, our little mafia family. Once you are in, you're in their hearts and they had our backs in more ways then we will probably ever know.

Moi, the fabulous Chef Dave and my roomie Mo
(photo courtesy of Derek Kyostia)

When you go to Antarctica, you turn your back on the rest of the world. Sailing across the planet's fiercest ocean and being away from any substantive ability to contact the rest of planet earth (which becomes pretty much irrelevant), you can only be fully present, breathing in each moment as it is. Despite what many people say, I don't think there is any way to truly be 'in the moment' for such extended, palpable periods of time, as when you are in Antartica. Life revolves around "gangway" times; days and weeks are joyously trivial.

In Antarctica, the door is always open for you to step out
and be a part of the magic of life. From sweetness and innocence...

fur seal pups (don't they just melt your heart?)

Chinstrap penguins getting some chow

to the harsh reality that even amongst all the beauty, sometimes you have front row seating to a seal having a very very bad day...

Orcas drowning a fur seal - some pre-dinner fun?
(photo courtesy of Derek Kyostia)

Antarctica is Shakespearean theatre at its best. From comedy to tragedy; from serenity to chaos. From sunrise to sunset, Antarctica is undoubtedly a place best seen, heard and felt.

Sunshine and ice near Vernadsky Station

When memories of Antarctica skate across my mind, I'm filled with a tremendous sense of being absolutely blessed to have this experience woven through my story. Sure, Antarctica escapes the ability of words to describe it, it still succeeded in capturing me. My passion and love for the place sealed tightly within the power of The Ice.

humpacks, icebergs and a glorious sunset
(photo courtesy of Derek Kyostia)

Mantra

I trust myself
I am centered
All is well in my world

quiet moment in Maui

Desiderata

Sublime and beautiful

Desiderata
Go placidly amidst the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence.
As far as possible without surrender be on good terms with all persons. Speak your truth quietly and clearly; and listen to others, even the dull and ignorant; they too have their story. Avoid loud and aggressive persons, they are vexatious to the spirit. If you compare yourself with others, you may become better or vain, for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself. Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans.
Keep interested in your own career, however humble; it is a real possession in the changing fortunes of time. Exercise caution in your business affairs; for the world is full of trickery. But let this not blind you to what virtue there is; many persons strive for high ideals; and everywhere life is full of heroism. Be yourself. Especially, do feign affection. Neither be cynical about love; for in the face of aridity and disenchantment it is perennial as the grass. Take kindly the counsel of the years, gracefully surrendering the things of youth. Nurture strength of spirit to shield you of in sudden misfortune. But do not distress yourself with imaginings. Many fears are born of fatigue and loneliness. Beyond a wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself. You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the starts; you have a right be here. And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should. Therefore be at peace with God, whatever you conceive Him to be, and whatever you labours and aspirations, in the noisy confusion of life keep peace with your soul. With all its sham, drudgery and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.

- Max Ehrman

The Lions

Summer solstice was celebrated with a little 15km jaunt to the The Lions in the cold, rain and snow. The expected epic day hike turned into a nice 4 hour out and back (trip average is 7). Our smoking good time left us a bit puzzled as to hike's 'epic' reputation. Maybe because it is mostly sheer vertical grade? or maybe its simply because we rock? I'm inclined to think the latter :)

Having fun freezing our asses off on the first day of summer

And, lucky us! the clouds parted as we summited and we were afforded a spectacular lunch time view. Something worth roaring about........

Raaawwrrrrrrrr!

When it blew up...

I realized how much I was missing U all.....

B12

This photo contains evidence of the trail being steeper than it looks!

Mount 7 is home to the "Worlds most demented downhill mountain bike race". Any trail where you drop in next to hang glider launches is rightfully labeled 'demented'. Luckily this isn't exclusive of fun (which is what continuously scaring the shit out of yourself is sometimes called)

Epic Awakening - Part III

Woohoo! The wheels were in motion as we began our ride around Mud Lake. Carefully following the instructions from our guide book, we turned left up a steep two-track path beginning our first climb. It was gruelling - exactly as described.

At the top we were immediately rewarded with an incredible view before zipping down into a blooming alpine meadow. The path was smooth and going was relatively effortless. The bright sun warmed our day, and several creek crossing cooled us down. It was idyllic.

looking back

Our nice path eventually gave way to a steep slope. With no apex in sight, we dismounted and pushed our bikes up the loose, dry dirt. The climb was long and brutal. We grumbled, and grumbled some more when we heard voices and revving motors, Damn! Rednecks. As we crested we caught sight of several dirt bikes, a handful of quads and dozen or so eyes peering inquisitively back at us. A couple of dirty, sweaty chicks, pushing their bikes up a mountain, staring right back at them.

Relay Creek was my answer to the inevitable 'where y'all headed?' query and not for moment did I doubt that we weren't well on our way to what the guide described as "little-known" and "the most spectacular of the Chilcotin single track". The rednecks looked a bit puzzled: Relay Creek? ladies, you're nearly in the Yalakom. Of course, I was sceptical of our enemy "no fucking way" was my response. But I could tell that this wasn't a joke. A map check via GPS showed, well.... that we were not on the map anymore and more devastatingly, we'd been off it for hours.

Our navigational error came early on. The left turn described in the book was not the only left we should have made. We would have to now double back nearly our entire route AND still have 6-8 hours of riding from there. Our spirits sank as we realized the mistake put our plan in jeopardy.

After a bit of banter we waved goodbye to our new friends as they left us in their dusty gas-scented wake. Who were we to complain? Having been lost and not knowing it had potentially very serious consequences far beyond a missed ride. And (as usual) we had been extremely lucky to have met these other 'fellow outdoor enthusiasts' when we did. After this rather unfavourable turn of events, we both knew that we'd be the talk of their campfire that evening!

Farewell friends

It was a wake up call indeed, and an insight into our own relative lack of preparedness for being in the way-back backcountry. And, nothing like a little bit of rescue action to change perspectives about who was fucking what up. We added to our Redneck Thesis - "A redneck will always stop to help you and have a winch and know how to use it". The guy in the BMW will probably leave you for dead. We were so glad that it was the rednecks that found us.

I like the way life is like that, one moment you get to be the smart-ass and the next your forced to swallow your pride and eat humble pie. Beside a lesson learned about self-propelled wilderness travel, we were also reminded that there is good to be found in everyone.